Even if broccoli wasn’t your favorite vegetable growing up, I guarantee you’ll appreciate the flavor of homegrown broccoli. There are so many fun varieties you can grow for a spin on the classic green head you buy from the store. Plus, more parts of the plant are edible (and quite tasty) than you might expect.
Just keep in mind broccoli takes a while to grow. And “ready to harvest” looks a little different for broccoli since we’re not growing it for the leaves, the roots, or the fruit, but for the unopened flower head.
In this comprehensive post, I’ll cover everything from the best types of broccoli to grow to how to know when to harvest, plus troubleshooting steps should something go wrong.
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QUICK GUIDE TO GROWING BROCCOLI
- Cool-season crop: grows best in spring and fall
- Heat sensitive: heads form best in cool temps
- Sun: 6–8 hours daily
- Soil: fertile + well-draining
- Grow in: raised beds, large containers, or in-ground
- Time to harvest: ~80–100 days
- Harvest tip: pick before tightly packed green buds open
THE BEST BROCCOLI VARIETIES TO GROW
There are actually two different types of broccoli you can grow: heading and sprouting. Both types produce edible flower heads (and leaves) to harvest.
Heading Broccoli
This is the type you’re most familiar with. It produces one large green “head”, also called a curd, that consists of hundreds of unopened flower buds. If the head were left on the plant, each bud would eventually become a small yellow flower. You can sometimes get side shoots, or mini versions of the head, if you allow the plant to continue growing after harvesting the head.
The best heading varieties include:
Sprouting Broccoli
Sprouting broccoli produces many smaller side shoots that are tender and often purple or white. Rather than one large harvest, you can harvest smaller shoots multiple times throughout the season. That’s great if you’re too impatient to wait on one large head (or if you’ve experienced broccoli issues in the past, like broccoli worms).
The best sprouting varieties to grow at home include:
- Broccolini – A delicious, tender-stemmed cross between traditional broccoli and Chinese broccoli (gai Ian or Chinese kale) that can withstand higher temps than traditional broccoli
- Burgundy broccoli – An antioxidant-rich variety with a beautiful purple color and generous side shoots
About Broccoli
Broccoli is a member of the Brassica family, alongside kale, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, and radishes. Brassicas are known for being super nutritious, and broccoli is no exception. It’s rich in antioxidants and a great source of potassium, iron, calcium, fiber, vitamin C, and beta-carotenes.
HOW TO GROW BROCCOLI AT HOME (Step-by-Step)
1. Where to Grow Broccoli
Broccoli grows well in raised beds, in containers, and even in the ground. It just needs fertile, well-drained soil and sunshine.
Raised Beds
Broccoli thrives in raised beds as long as you can give each plant 18-24 inches to spread out.
Containers
You can also grow broccoli in 5-gallon tubs or containers at least 18 inches (45.7cm) wide. Make sure your container has good drainage holes in the bottom, and fill it with high-quality organic potting soil, like Fox Farms Ocean Forest.
👉Explore our top container picks and more tips to set your container garden up for success in our Container Gardening Guide.
In the Ground
Broccoli is easy to grow in the ground, unless slugs are an issue. (Containers are easier to protect from these pests.)
Before planting broccoli in the ground, amend your native soil by digging down about 6 inches (15.2cm) and then working in compost and coarse sand to improve drainage.
2. Sun Requirements
Plant your broccoli where it’ll receive 6 to 8 hours of sunlight to form a nice head. If you’re growing broccoli in winter, it’s especially important to plant it to the south of any large structures or plants that may block the low winter sun. Without sufficient light, you’ll get thin, leggy plants with underwhelming heads.
3. Soil
Broccoli does best in well-drained soil rich in organic matter. The ideal soil pH is slightly acidic (between 6.0 and 7.0). My ideal sandy loam soil for containers and raised beds is a fluffy mix of potting soil (containers) or topsoil (raised beds) with compost and paver sand.
Before planting seeds or transplants, add a 1- to 2-inch layer of compost to the top of your soil to increase available nutrients.
4. When to Plant Broccoli
Broccoli is a cool season plant that grows best in temperatures between 50 and 75°F (10 – 24°C). It’s frost-tolerant once established, but it does not like hot weather when it’s trying to germinate or produce a head.
To figure out your broccoli growing window, check your average monthly temperatures and look for a stretch where temps will be between 40 and 80°F (4-27°C). A 60-day stretch is good; 80 days is even better. You may be able to grow broccoli in the spring and fall, or over winter if you live in a warmer climate.
Where I live in Central Texas, we can plant broccoli in late January/February for a spring harvest and then again in late September/October for a winter harvest. Spring can be tricky because the daytime temps often rise too quickly.
Broccoli is best started indoors and then transplanted, especially in warmer climates. In the spring, start seeds 9 to 12 weeks before your last frost date so that you can transplant them 3 to 4 weeks before the last frost date.
In the fall, start seeds 8 to 10 weeks before your first frost date and get them in the ground once temps cool off. You may need to protect your seedlings with shade cloth if warm temps return.
👉 Plug your zipcode into our Indoor Planting Calendar to see when you should start broccoli seeds indoors.
5. How to Plant Broccoli
You can start your own broccoli seeds indoors to transplant outdoors once the temps are right, or you can buy well-grown plant starts from your local nursery for planting.
I only recommend direct sowing broccoli seeds if you anticipate 80 to 100 days of nice, cool weather. If direct sowing, space seeds about 12 inches (30.5cm) apart and thin later.
Here are steps to start broccoli seeds indoors and transplant seedlings outdoors in the garden:
1. Growing Broccoli from Seeds Indoors
Starting broccoli seeds indoors ahead of the season allows you to maximize your plants’ time in nice, cool weather. You can sow seeds in shallow trays or small pots filled with moistened seed starting mix.
Sow 1 broccoli seed per space and then cover with a plastic dome, tea towel, or plastic baggie to maintain moisture. Place in a sunny windowsill or under grow lights.
Broccoli seedlings can be transplanted to your garden or a larger pot once they’ve developed 4 to 5 true leaves.
Before transplanting outside, make sure to harden off your broccoli seedlings to reduce transplant shock. Bring the seedlings outdoors and place in a shaded spot for an hour before returning them indoors. Increase the outdoor time and amount of sunlight over the next week to get them used to outdoor conditions.
Follow the steps in our indoor seed starting guide to ensure success.
2. Transplanting Broccoli Seedlings
Wait until outdoor temperatures are ideal to transplant broccoli. Space plants 2 to 3 feet (61-91.4cm) apart in rows in the ground OR about 18 inches (45.7cm) apart in raised beds. To prevent caterpillars, cover your plants with garden mesh or a floating row cover.
When planting broccoli, dig a hole that’s slightly deeper than the root ball and bury the stem up to the first set of leaves. This encourages broccoli to grow a stronger foundation.
Water your plants in well and keep the soil consistently moist for the first 2 weeks after planting. Be ready to cover with frost cloth or shade cloth as needed to protect young plants.
Pro Tip: Plant aromatic herbs like rosemary and thyme nearby broccoli to hide its scent from pests. Add flowers to attract beneficial insects like ladybugs. Dill and cilantro also make wonderful broccoli companions; just when broccoli’s main pests become active in the spring/summer, these herbs flower, bringing in pest predators.
6. How to Harvest Broccoli Heads
Broccoli is ready to harvest once the central head has formed, but timing is everything. You want to pick it before the flower buds start to open.
Here’s what to look for:
- Heads should be tight, firm, and deep green
- The florets should be compact (not spreading apart)
- No yellow petals should be visible
- The head should feel solid when gently squeezed
- Most varieties will form heads around 3 to 6 inches wide
If you’re growing broccoli in the fall or winter, you may even notice the flavor improves after a light frost—it gets a little sweeter.
7. How to Grow Broccoli Year Round
If your growing windows seem too short (if you’re intimidated just thinking about when to plant), consider growing broccoli sprouts or broccoli microgreens indoors. Both options are super nutritious and give you that broccoli flavor—you just won’t get a full head or even normal-size leaves. You can grow sprouts and microgreens with very little setup (or sunlight) required, no matter the season. Even better? You’ll get your harvest in just 7 to 21 days.
👉 Explore our Easy Guide to Growing Microgreens.
CARING FOR BROCCOLI PLANTS
Once broccoli is in the ground, follow these tending tasks to keep your plants happy and healthy.
Water
Provide consistent moisture throughout the broccoli plant’s growth cycle (1 to 1½ inches of water per week). The roots of broccoli are fairly shallow for such a large plant, so you’ll need to water if you’re not getting consistent rain.
When watering, avoid splashing the leaves or head, which can cause rot. Aim water at the roots of the plant.
Fertilize
Broccoli is a fairly heavy feeder. I recommend applying an organic all-purpose fertilizer such as Fox Farms Organic All Purpose Fertilizer at time of planting. Once the plant begins to form its central flower head, start applying to MicroLife Maximum Blooms or Fox Farms Tiger Bloom every 2-4 weeks.
👉 Learn more about the best fertilizers for growing broccoli.
Protecting from Pest and Weather
Common garden pests like slugs, flea beetles, and cabbage loopers prey on broccoli. The best way to protect your plants from pests is to put up a physical barrier like garden mesh or fabric tulle just after planting. Pests can’t be an issue if they never have access.
You might also need to protect your broccoli from the weather. In the spring, you can protect young plants from late freezes with old sheets, frost cloth, or row covers. In the fall, mature plants usually only need to be covered if you’re expecting temps 26°F (-3°C) or lower.
As the weather warms, use shade cloth to keep the air and soil underneath cool to prevent your broccoli from “buttoning,” or producing a smaller head than expected.
Supporting Plants
Broccoli plants benefit from hilling as soon as they’ve developed their first set of leaves. Hilling simply means adding some fresh compost around the plant’s base. Broccoli plants have shallow roots, so this gives them additional support, as well as nutrients. Since I’m not a fan of mulch, I also use this compost layer to keep the soil underneath cool and moist.
If your broccoli plants begin to lean as they grow, use a stake and some twine to offer additional support.
Pruning and Thinning
Once your broccoli plants are a couple inches tall, thin any extras so that your plants are 12 to 20 inches (30.5 to 50.8cm) apart.
Every couple of weeks, prune some of the lower leaves to maintain good airflow around the plant. (These leaves are edible and full of nutrients, so toss them into your salad bowl!)
TROUBLESHOOTING COMMON BROCCOLI GROWING PROBLEMS
Broccoli can be a tricky vegetable to grow, mostly because it needs so long under the right conditions to produce. Brassicas are also, unfortunately, prone to pest problems.
Here are common issues you might face when growing your own broccoli and how to fix them organically.
Yellowing Broccoli Leaves
Problem: Bottom leaves turning yellow
Cause: Nitrogen deficiency
Fix: Feed your plants with a nitrogen-rich organic fertilizer like blood meal, fish emulsion, or an all-purpose organic fertilizer. This will help restore healthy green growth.
Holes in Leaves
Problem: Leaves have visible holes or are being eaten
Cause: Caterpillars (cabbage loopers or cabbage worms)
Fix: Check the undersides of leaves and hand-pick any visible pests (toss them into soapy water). Check daily for more pests and their eggs.
If the issue is severe, use Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis), a natural bacterial pesticide. Allow 2 to 3 days for the spray to kill the pests.
Also, keep your plants as healthy as possible to make them less attractive to pests.
👉 Learn more about cabbage moth control.
Broccoli Leaves Wilting
Problem: Leaves are wilting even after watering
Cause: Clubroot (soil-borne fungal disease)
Fix: Remove the affected plants quickly before the fungus spreads in the soil. Throw these plants in the trash, not your compost pile. To get rid of the fungus, you’ll need to solarize your soil and raise its pH above 7.2.
White Patches on Leaves
Problem: White spots or patches on leaves
Cause: Downy mildew (common in wet conditions)
Fix: Spray Arber fungicide or copper fungicide on affected plants. Try to keep the leaves as dry as possible and maintain good air circulation. In the future, look for resistant varieties.
Leaf Curl
Problem: Leaves curling or distorted
Cause: Aphids feeding on plant sap
Fix: Spray your leaves with a strong blast of water to displace aphids. Spray insecticidal soap on the tops and bottoms of leaves.
Small Heads or Early Flowering
Problem: Tiny heads or flowers forming too early
Cause: Heat stress (temps above 80°F)
Fix: Harvest your broccoli heads as soon as you notice yellow spots from flowers beginning to open, no matter how small the head is. If you have other broccoli plants growing, consider covering them with shade cloth to delay flowering. Or just harvest them early since heads are edible at any size.
Broccoli Growing Stages
Broccoli plants go from seed to harvest in 50 to 100 days, depending on both the variety and the weather. Here’s an overview of the complete life cycle of the plant:
- Broccoli Sprouts: Broccoli seeds germinate in about 7 to 10 days.
- Broccoli Leaves: The plant will form lots of frilly pale-green leaves that are edible and really tender when young. I love to harvest a couple and toss them in my salad bowl.
- Broccoli Head: The head is actually a cluster of unopened flower buds. Broccoli is best harvested before those flowers bloom.
- Broccoli Side Shoots: If the main head is harvested but the weather remains ideal, broccoli plants often produce smaller heads, or side shoots, off the main stalk. These heads can be harvested.
- Broccoli Flowers: Each little green bud blooms into a yellow flower that will eventually become a seed head. These pretty little flowers are beloved by pollinators.
Pro Tip: While you’re waiting on the main head, go ahead and harvest a few of the lower leaves. They’re completely edible and taste similar to kale or cabbage—perfect for tossing into salads or sautéing.
If you miss your window and start to see yellow flowers forming, don’t worry. The head is still edible, though the texture won’t be quite as tender.
The best time to harvest broccoli is early in the morning, when the plant is fully hydrated.
To harvest, use a sharp knife or clean pruners and cut the main head just below the base. Leave the rest of the plant in place—many varieties will continue producing smaller side shoots that you can harvest for weeks.
One thing to keep in mind: homegrown broccoli is often smaller than what you see at the store. But what it lacks in size, it more than makes up for in flavor—this is where growing your own really shines.
How to Store Broccoli
Unwashed broccoli heads can stay in the humid produce drawer of your fridge for 10 to 14 days. For long-term storage, broccoli can be blanched and frozen for up to 12 months.
BROCCOLI GROWING FAQs
How many heads of broccoli do you get from each plant?
Heading broccoli plants produce one main head. After harvest, if you leave the rest of the plant to keep growing and if the weather remains ideal, many varieties will then produce what are called side shoots, or smaller heads.
Why is broccoli hard to grow?
There are two aspects to growing broccoli that make it more challenging. The first is its time from seed to harvest. Broccoli needs up to 100 days in cool weather to produce a tasty head. (Indoor seed starting can help increase the time broccoli grows under its ideal conditions.)
The second challenge is pests. As a brassica, broccoli is prone to pests like caterpillars.
How do you cut broccoli so it keeps growing?
The key is to take only what you need and leave the rest of the plant to keep growing. You can harvest a couple lower leaves throughout the growing season, before taking the head. To harvest the head, cut just below. Leave the stem and the leaves so the plant will produce side shoots.
What are the best broccoli companion plants?
Fragrant herbs like chives, rosemary, thyme, and oregano make great neighbors that can help ward off pests. Flowers are also useful (and beautiful) companions. Lastly, gardeners swear that growing celery and onions nearby broccoli improves the flavor.
What should not be planted next to broccoli?
Keep some distance between broccoli and other brassicas like kale, cabbage, and cauliflower. These plants need the same nutrients to grow, and they also attract the same pests.
That’s all there is to growing the tastiest broccoli ever! While you’re waiting on your heads to form, just remind yourself you’re growing flavors you can’t buy at the store.
Let us know if you have any questions about growing broccoli in the comments below.
