There are many reasons to grow this aromatic herb in your garden, whether you’re gardening in a full raised bed or a couple of containers. Basil, from the mint (Lamiaceae) family, is an attractive little plant that’s easy to grow and useful in the kitchen (good for more than just pesto!), and it benefits neighboring plants in your garden.
That’s right. Tomatoes grown near basil tend to be more flavorful and suffer fewer pest issues. That’s because basil both deters common garden pests with its strong aroma and attracts beneficial insects. That makes basil a must-grow summer herb in my book.
This guide will walk you through how to plant, grow, harvest, and enjoy your own basil all summer long (and beyond).
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QUICK GUIDE TO GROWING BASIL
- Basil is a warm-season plant that grows outdoors in between your frost dates.
- Start basil from seed indoors, direct sow it, or buy starter plants from your local nursery.
- Basil likes warm, well-draining soil, regular watering, and 6 to 8 hours of sunlight.
- Harvest basil regularly by removing stems above a leaf node.
- Pinch off flowers to keep the plants productive and the leaves flavorful.
Basil Varieties
There are many different types of basil, some with smooth leaves, others with ruffled, some green, some purple. Most varieties of basil stay fairly compact with regular pruning, growing just 8 to 20 inches (20 to 50cm) tall.
I recommend trying a few different ones to find your favorite! You’ll need just 1 or 2 of each of your chosen plants to supply your kitchen, unless you want to make a lot of pesto (in which case, I recommend growing 2 to 4 sweet basil plants).
- Sweet basil – AKA Genovese basil, this is the most common variety, offering that classic basil flavor used in dishes like pesto.
- Purple basil – Add some color to your vegetable garden with these deep purple leaves. This type has hints of clove and allspice.
- Thai basil – The stems of Thai basil have a purple tinge, and its leaves fold up instead of curving down. It adds a spicy licorice flavor to your meals. It holds up to heat better than other basil types, which is why it’s often used when cooking Asian-inspired dishes.
- Cinnamon basil – Also called Mexican spice basil, this cultivar of Thai basil features bright green leaves on dark purple stems. The leaves, as you’d expect, add a cinnamon-y punch to a dish.
- Lemon basil – This variety tends to stay smaller, making it ideal for containers. True to its name, it adds a citrusy tang to food and drinks.
- Holy basil – Also known as tulsi, this variety has been used for medicinal and ceremonial purposes for over 3,000 years. A powerful adaptogen, it helps the body manage stress, balance hormones, and promote overall vitality.
- African blue basil – This type is best loved by pollinators. Unfortunately, its beautiful flowers are sterile, so you can’t grow it from seed. If you can find plants for sale (or take stem cuttings), this variety is well worth growing.
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PLANTING BASIL
Where to Plant Basil
Basil grows well in raised beds, in containers, and even in the ground. It just needs well-drained soil and sunshine.
RAISED BEDS
Raised beds provide the good drainage basil roots need. Basil makes a wonderful companion plant for everything from tomatoes to zucchini.
CONTAINERS
Basil can be grown in pots and containers that are at least 6 inches (15.24cm) deep with a drainage hole. I recommend using materials like galvanized steel or terracotta.
Pro Tip: Cover the drainage hole with weed barrier cloth or a coffee filter to prevent your soil from running out when you water your herbs. You’ll need to water your potted basil more frequently, but on the plus side, you can bring it indoors during cold weather. Your plant will continue growing in a sunny windowsill.
IN THE GROUND
Basil can grow in the ground as long as there’s good drainage. I’ve even seen basil plants grown from dropped seeds thriving in gravel walkways. If slugs are in issue in your area, you may be better off growing basil in a container, which is easier to protect.
SOIL
Basil does best in well-drained soil rich in organic matter. My ideal loamy soil for containers and raised beds is a fluffy mix of potting soil (containers) or sandy loam (raised beds), compost, and paver sand. If you need to improve drainage for an in-ground bed, dig down about 6 inches and work in paver sand and compost.
SUN
Basil grows well in both full sun and partial shade. Your plant will produce more leaves for you (and those leaves will contain more essential oils and, thus, more flavor) if it gets at least 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. When summer temps climb above 85°F (29.4°C), basil appreciates some afternoon shade.
When to Plant Basil
Basil is a tender perennial plant (meaning it has zero frost tolerance) that’s often treated as an annual in areas with frost. Basil can grow outdoors once all threat of frost has passed in the spring. Plants should be removed or potted up and brought indoors before the first frost in the fall.
You can get a head start on the growing season by starting basil seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before your last frost date.
How to Plant Basil
Basil is super easy to start from seed, and growing from seed is an inexpensive way to grow one (or all!) of the fun varieties. Basil seeds sprout quickly and have a high germination rate. The only thing difficult is managing the seeds because they’re really tiny.
Otherwise, grab a well-grown basil plant from your local nursery. (You can buy a little pot from your nearest grocery store, but keep in mind that these are usually overseeded to look nice and full. That means you have overcrowded plants that are meant to be harvested in the near future. You’ll need to thin them out if you plan on growing them.)
Here are steps to start basil seeds indoors or direct sow seeds outdoors in the garden:
SOWING BASIL SEEDS INDOORS
Starting basil seeds indoors gives you a 6- to 8-week jump start on the spring growing season. You can sow seeds in shallow trays or small pots filled with moistened seed starting mix.
Scatter the seeds over the surface of the mix, press them down gently with your hand, and cover with a plastic dome, tea towel, or plastic baggie to maintain moisture. Place in a sunny windowsill or under grow lights.
Basil seedlings can be transplanted to your garden or a larger pot once they’ve developed 2 to 3 pairs of true leaves. Before transplanting outside, make sure to harden off your basil seedlings, or gradually get them used to outdoor conditions. Dig a deeper hole than you normally would so that part of the stem is buried; this encourages the herb to create a stronger base.
For more, check out our indoor seed starting guide.
SOWING BASIL SEEDS OUTDOORS
Direct sowing basil seeds is simpler than indoor seed starting, but you have to wait until frost has passed. It works best for those of you in warmer climates with longer growing seasons.
- Begin by spreading a 1- to 2-inch-thick layer of finished compost over the planting area to give yourself a nice, rich soil surface.
- Sow basil seeds about 2 inches (5cm) apart. Press them into the soil surface so they have good contact, and then sprinkle a very fine layer of compost over the planting area when you’re done.
- Water the planting area gently to avoid displacing your seeds. Continue watering regularly so the soil doesn’t dry out.
Basil seeds typically sprout in 6 to 14 days.
Once your seedlings are a couple inches tall, thin them out so that they’re growing about 4 to 8 inches (10.16 to 20.32cm) apart. Simply snip weaker-looking seedlings at the base and bring them indoors to enjoy in your next salad.
SOWING BASIL MICROGREENS
Another easy option is growing basil microgreens by sowing basil seeds densely in shallow trays for harvesting in about 14 to 21 days. You can grow microgreens indoors at any time of year; you just need a sunny windowsill (or some grow lights) and water. The results are flavorful, nutritious tiny greens you can toss into salads, sandwiches, and other dishes.
Learn more about growing your own microgreens indoors.
HOW TO PLANT BASIL SEEDLINGS (TRANSPLANTS)
If you’re not starting from seed, grab basil from a local nursery. Once you get it home, give it a good drink and check the pot as some store/nursery basil is several crowded plants, not just one.
Gently remove the root ball and separate the stems into individual plants. Replant each one about 6-12 inches apart with a little extra depth (bury past the root neck) so they grow stronger roots, then pinch off the top leaves to help the plants branch and fill out. If you choose to plant your seedlings closer together then they will require more frequent pruning to keep good airflow and to not overwhelm you with too much basil.
GROWING BASIL
Once your basil plants are established, they’re super easy to care for. Provide water and sunlight (and maybe some additional nutrients), and prune/harvest regularly to keep your plants bushy and productive.
Watering Basil
Basil likes more moisture in the soil than herbs like rosemary and thyme. It’ll need a good inch of water each week. Water basil transplants well until they’re established, then supplemental water during dry spells to keep the soil evenly moist. This helps prevent early flowering.
When you’re watering, aim at the roots and avoid splashing the leaves to deter disease.
Fertilizing Basil
If you’re growing basil in good soil, you can fertilize sparingly. Fertilizers high in nitrogen promote leaf growth. I use a slow-release fertilizer like MicroLife All Purpose or fresh compost.
Container-grown basil will need more frequent feeding. You’ll know your herbs could use a boost if their leaves aren’t looking as green as you’d like.
Pruning Basil
As soon as your basil seedlings are about 6 inches tall, pinch the stem to remove the top set or two of leaves. This will encourage your plant to start bushing out, instead of growing straight up.
Continue pinching the tip of branches once they have several leaf pairs to promote bushier growth. This helps to prevent early flowering and diminished leaf quality around mid- to late summer. If you do notice flower buds forming, pinch them off before they bloom.
If you’re growing several basil plants, consider allowing one to flower since basil flowers do attract all kinds of beneficial insects to your garden.
HARVESTING AND STORING BASIL
How to Harvest Basil
You can begin harvesting from your basil plants as soon as they’re 6 to 8 inches tall (pinching the tips is, after all, harvesting those leaves!). The best time to harvest herbs is early in the morning, when the leaves are full of essential oils.
To harvest, focus on the top of the plant. Again, you can encourage basil to grow bigger and bushier by cutting a stem just above a leaf node (where two leaves grow opposite each other), which causes the stem to branch out. Use clean scissors or pruners (or your fingernails) to cut just above this leaf set.
Harvest basil regularly to keep your plants productive throughout the summer. Seriously, the more you take, the more your plants will give! Snip some leaves for immediate fresh use and save some leaves for later.
Harvest all your basil before there’s a freeze in the forecast; the cold temps will kill your plants.
Pro Tip: For the best leaf flavor, prevent your basil plants from flowering by harvesting stems regularly. If your plants do flower, you can actually eat them (they’re 100% edible and milder in flavor than the leaves, though some can be bitter) or use them as garnishes. Otherwise, leave the flowers for beneficial insects to enjoy.
How to Store Basil
Basil is best stored for fresh use at room temp. Strip any lower leaves and place cut stems in a little jar filled with fresh water, the way you would flowers. Leave on your counter, out of direct sunlight.
For long-term storage, consider freezing or drying basil leaves.
FREEZING BASIL
Basil needs some preparation before it can be frozen if you don’t want to end up with mushy leaves. Blanch the leaves, dry them completely, and then store in layers separated by parchment paper in a freezer-safe container. Or freeze leaves in olive oil in ice cube trays. Another option is to make pesto to freeze. Frozen basil should be used within 3 to 6 months.
DRYING BASIL
Drying basil is easy, but you do, unfortunately, lose a bit of the flavor. You can dry basil by tying stems into bunches and hanging them indoors in a cool, dark spot. Leaves should be crisp and ready to store in an airtight jar in 5 to 10 days. Otherwise, you can use a dehydrator or your oven set to the lowest temp with the door ajar.
Learn more about drying your own herbs at home.
FREEZE DRYING BASIL
Freeze drying is hands-down my favorite way to store basil when I want that fresh garden flavor months later. Unlike air-drying, freeze drying keeps the bright green color, aroma, and most of the taste intact.
If you have a home freeze dryer, simply wash and fully dry your basil leaves, remove thick stems, and spread the leaves in a single layer on trays. Run a standard herb cycle until the leaves are completely crisp, then store them in airtight jars or vacuum-sealed bags away from light. Properly stored, freeze-dried basil can last a year or more.
If you’ve been thinking about preserving more of your garden harvest this way, I use and recommend the Harvest Right Freeze Dryer.
How to Harvest Basil Seeds
If you’re growing a basil plant you really enjoy, it’s easy to save seeds from that plant for next year. All you have to do is leave the flowers on the plants to dry out. Once they’ve shriveled up and turned brown, cut the flower heads from the plant and store them in a jar. You can also scatter the seeds on the soil where you’d like them to grow next year.
COMMON PROBLEMS WITH GROWING BASIL
Basil plants aren’t prone to pest issues. In fact, the scent of basil actually repels many common pests (a great reason to grow basil every summer!). This herb can, however, suffer occasional aphid attacks or disease issues.
Aphids
These sap-sucking pests cause leaf curling, yellowing, and stunted growth. Wash plants with a strong spray of water or use insecticidal soap, focusing on the undersides of leaves where aphids cluster. The best way to prevent aphids is by keeping your plants healthy. Learn more about treating and preventing aphids.
Pro Tip: Grow basil near chives to repel aphids.
Powdery Mildew
This fungal disease, which shows up as little white or gray patches on leaves, is common in areas with wet and dry spells. To prevent mildew and mold, ensure adequate air circulation around plants by harvesting frequently, and keep leaves dry. Treat with a Arber Organic Fungicide.
Holes in Leaves
If you notice holes in your basil leaves, it’s a chewing pest like Japanese beetles or grasshoppers. Cover plants with garden mesh once you’ve removed all visible adult pests, and spray with some neem oil.
Slugs
Slugs leave slime trails on leaves and chew through tender stems. Avoid overly moist conditions, which attract slugs. Handpick pests and treat with organic Sluggo.
PROPAGATING BASIL
You can easily start new basil plants from cuttings taken from plants and even stems from the grocery store. Just follow these steps:
- Cut a non-flowering stem above a leaf node at an angle. Aim for each cutting to be 3 to 4 inches long.
- Strip the lower leaves and pinch off the tip of the stem.
- Place the cutting in a jar of fresh water and set it somewhere in bright but indirect light.
- Refresh the water every couple of days while you wait on roots to form.
- Gently plant your rooted cutting in soil once the roots are about 2 inches long.
BASIL GROWING FAQs
DOES PINCHING OFF THE FLOWERS MAKE MORE LEAVES GROW?
Pinching off basil flowers and flower buds temporarily redirects the plant’s energy from seed production back to leaf growth, which means you can continue harvesting those tasty leaves. Removing flowers also prevents the leaves from becoming bitter. To prevent early flowering, avoid stressing your plant by maintaining soil moisture and providing afternoon shade in hot weather. Frequent harvesting also helps.
WHAT IS THE TRICK TO GROWING BASIL?
Basil is very easy to grow, but to maintain a healthy, productive plant, give this herb 6 to 8 hours of sunlight a day, plant it in well-drained soil, and water when the top inch of soil is dry to the touch. Avoid splashing water onto the leaves to prevent disease. Harvest weekly by pinching off the top sets of leaves to encourage bushier growth. Pinch off flowers to delay seed production.
HOW DO YOU CUT BASIL SO IT KEEPS GROWING?
Instead of harvesting from the outside of the plant as you do for many other cut-and-come-again veggies and herbs, focus on the top. Trim stems just above a leaf node (where two leaves meet) so that the plant will grow two new stems from that spot. The more cuts you make, the more stems you’ll have, and ultimately, the more leaves you can harvest.
One thing to keep in mind is to avoid harvesting more than a third of one plant at a time.
DOES BASIL NEED FULL SUN?
Give your basil plants full sun (6 to 8 hours a day) for the fastest growth and best flavor. Basil plants will continue to grow with as little as 3 to 4 hours of sun a day, and in hot climates, it’s actually better to give your plants afternoon shade.
WHAT DO YOU DO WITH BASIL AT THE END OF THE SEASON?
Harvest all of your basil stems at the end of your growing season (in other words, right before you’re expecting a frost). Save leaves for winter by freezing or drying them so you’ll enjoy the taste of basil long after your plants are gone.
The best way to remove basil plants from your garden is by using pruners to cut the base of the plant, rather than yanking it up. Leave the roots in the soil.
If you’re experiencing an extremely hot summer (temps regularly above 100°F/37.78°C), your basil plants might flower early from heat stress. Wait until the temps drop a bit to replant fresh basil, which you’ll be able to enjoy well into the fall in your warm climate.
HOW OFTEN SHOULD BASIL BE WATERED?
Basil plants need about 1 to 1½ inches of water per week to stay healthy and productive. The easiest way to tell if your plants need to be watered is to stick your finger in the soil; if it’s dry about 1 inch down, then it’s time to water basil again.
That’s all there is to growing your own fresh supply of delicious basil! Toss basil into your salad bowl for a summery punch, make batches of pesto to freeze for winter, and level up your pasta. Just remember that most basil varieties lose their flavor when cooked, so add leaves right before serving. Bon appetite!
